1. Near-Winter New Route on Alberta's North Face by By Dougald MacDonald
Americans Vince Anderson and Steve House climbed a new route through the rock headwall atop Mt. Alberta’s 3,250-foot north face in late March—the first time this daunting Canadian Rockies wall has been ascended in full winter conditions. More article read here
2. Austrian Woman Climbs 11th 8,000'er By Dougald MacDonaldAmericans Vince Anderson and Steve House climbed a new route through the rock headwall atop Mt. Alberta’s 3,250-foot north face in late March—the first time this daunting Canadian Rockies wall has been ascended in full winter conditions. More article read here
Austrian Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner summited 8,167-meter Dhaulagiri in Nepal on May 1, giving her 11 of the 14 main 8,000-meter summits on Earth, more than any other woman. Read More article click here
3. Kinder Creates Utah Testpiece By Dougald MacDonald
Joe Kinder has completed Golden Direct (5.14c/d) at the Cathedral near St. George, Utah. The 90-foot limestone route adds a direct start to Golden (hard 5.14b), while eliminating that route’s sit-down rest, to create a power-endurance route with about 50 moves. Read More article click here
4. Yuji Hirayama Still Has the Power By Dougald MacDonald
Japan’s Yuji Hirayama, one of the great all-around rock climbers of the past decade, has focused on bouldering at home this spring, with impressive results. On April 15, Hirayama made the third ascent of the Dai Koyamada endurance problem Uma (V14) at Shiobara. Koyamada, the best-known Japanese boulderer, established the 22-move problem in 2006. Read More article click here
5. Colorado Headpoint Gets Four Repeats By Megan Parks
The trad-style/headpoint testpiece Must’a Been High (5.13c R), on the Rincon Wall in Eldorado Springs Canyon, Colorado, saw a record four ascents over a three-week period in late February, early March. T. Read More article click here
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